North Carolina

North Carolina: Day Nine

I had to get up early this morning, since I had made an appointment to see the Duke University Lemur Center, a forty-five minute ride north of Raleigh.  As usual, I tried to outwit my GPS unit and turned off on a side route that “looked faster” on the map.  Ha!  So much for short-cuts!  There was a light on every corner of that road, and it started driving me up the wall.  If I’d listen to my GPS, I could be cruisin’ on the highway.  But I got stubborn.  In the ongoing GPS-Sandy war, the GPS unit was definitely ahead! 

Nonetheless, I made it with time to spare.  Talk about off the beaten path!  I entered the Duke Forest and took a restricted road back to along gravel driveway, through several intimidating gates, and back into a little resort-type area full of trees and low buildings painted dark brown.  It looked more like a pleasant campground than a research center, until you noticed all the fences.  I parked in a gravel lot to the left and wandered up the handicap ramp at the front of Lemur Landing, the gift shop and place where the tours started.  There were two women at the top of the ramp, chatting happily together.  As soon as they spotted me, they knew me for the guest come to take a tour.  The only guest, as it turned out.  Wonderful! 

My guide – a lovely volunteer lady named Carol – was mad about lemurs, and I knew at once we’d get along great, since I was a bit crazy about lemurs too.  She showed me a short film, and then we went outside to see the diurnal lemurs.  In the summer, the wonderful creatures get to play in vast wood habitats – those I glimpsed over the fences – playing and eating and raising their young.  In winter, they retreated into heated cages and guarded their boundaries zealously.  Today, those cages were surrounded by plastic tenting to keep out the chilly winter cold (and it was only 27 degrees Fahrenheit on this particular morning.)  The tent had a number of Plexiglas windows set at intervals along the cages, so visitors could look in at the lemurs.  

Carol took me to the first set of cages and opened the windows so I could look inside and interact with the lemurs.  It was obvious that she spent a great deal of time there, for the lemurs inside reacted at once to her presence, looking down at her, moving about.  It was also obvious that they liked her, for none displayed any stress at her presence, and they quickly decided I was also harmless, for they soon came down to the dishes to eat and stare out at me with as much interest as I stared at them. 

We went from window to window, and Carol told me stories about the individual lemurs as well as information about breed, habitat and endangered status.  All the while I snapped pictures and enjoyed the antics of the inquisitive, lovely animals.  By the time we reached the ring-tailed lemur cage (my all-time favorite lemur and the one I am determined to return as, should I get to return as an animal!), I heartily wished there was a lemur center in New York where I could volunteer.  The work they are doing at this center is marvelous, both for preservation, successful breeding, and education about these wonderful creatures.  A fact I found fascinating was the lemurs – when ill – seem to know which jungle plants they need to eat to cure themselves.  Researchers believe we can find new medicines just by observing the eating habits of sick lemurs.

After a quick trip to the nocturnal unit to see the busybaby (another favorite of mine) and the aye-aye named Edgar Allan Poe, who popped his head out three or four times to get a look at me, I headed back to Lemur Landing visitor center and said farewell to my charming and informative guide. 

During the afternoon, I drove to the Outer Banks, watching the rolling hills turn to farmland, and then to swamps and nature preserves.  The smell of the approaching sea filled the air, and that amazing quality of light you can only find near the sea filled the pines and woodlands.  I crossed one bridge – than two, through Roanoke Island where the Lost Colony once lived.  And then I was heading through Nags Head to a lovely house in Southern Shores.  I could not believe my luck when I pulled into the driveway and into three stories of gorgeous views, comfortable large rooms, every sort of recreational toy available – including two bikes!!  Oh boy, am I going to have fun here!  I had to remind myself I was in the Outer Banks to do research and not just to bike down to the beach!   (Though I plan to do that too!) 

Tomorrow will be a great day!

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